Tuesday, December 13, 2011

This bread is really square

I recently picked up a pullman loaf pan. If you're not familiar with it, a pullman pan (also known as a pain de mie pan) has a lid.

Rather than having the flared sides of a typical bread pan, this one has straighter sides.

The lid performs several different functions. First, it keeps the bread confined, which means it can't rise as much as it wants to. That affects the crumb structure. You won't get big bubbles.

Second, the bread comes out of the pan with a square top. It's actually pretty square all around. It makes nice sandwich bread, and if you need to cut the crusts off for presentation, you won't have a lot of waste.

Third, since it cooks in that confined space, the steam from the cooking bread doesn't escape the way it does when you cook free-form, or even in an open pan.

Does everyone need a pullman pan? Probably not. But if you want this type of bread, having the right pan sure works a heck of a lot better than more, er ... creative methods.

Pullman Loaf (with Semolina and White Wheat) 
makes one 13x4x4 loaf

1 1/2 cups lukewarm water
1 cup (5 1/2 ounces) semolina flour
2 tablespoons honey
2 1/4 teaspoons instant yeast
2 cups (9 ounces) bread flour
1/2 cup white wheat flour
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
3 tablespoons butter

In the bowl of your stand mixer, combine the water, semolina flour, honey, yeast, and bread flour. Stir to combine. Cover and set aside for 20 minutes.

Add the white wheat flour, salt, and butter and knead with the dough hook attachment of your stand mixer until the dough is smooth and elastic.

Flour your work surface lightly, and knead by hand briefly, then form the dough into a ball. Drizzle with olive oil and return it to the bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside for 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. turn out the dough and knead it briefly to knock out the large bubbles. Form it into a log about 13 inches long - to fit inside the pan. Place the log in the pan, seam-side down.


Put the lid on the pan and set aside until the dough has risen to within about an inch of the top of the pan - about 40 minute (but you might want to check at 30 minutes, just in case)

Bake at 350 degrees until the loaf is golden brown, about 40 minutes. Remove the loaf from the pan and allow it to cool completely on a rack before slicing.

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Comments (18)

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Now I need one of those pans, Donna :)
My recent post Sugar, spice and everything nice!
The brad had a bit more chew to it, sort of like when I make rye bread in my clay baker. Not a rubbery chew, but a little more body than a typical white bread.
I've seen pullman breads, but never knew where they got that name. Thanks!
My recent post Chocolate-Coated Marshmallows - Easy
This looks so much simpler than the recipe at King Arthur, so thanks! One question though please. Do you see any problems with subsituting regular ole whole wheat flour for the white wheat? And I'm guessing 1/2 C is about 2.25 oz? Oh dear. That's 2 questions.
1 reply · active 693 weeks ago
Regular whole wheat would be fine and 2 1/4 ounces should be perfect.
hum vou fazer deve ficar maravilhoso beijo amo culinária
I've been making this bread since I saw it on Serious Eats. (At least I think that's where I saw it.) I tried many Pullman recipes and was disappointed in all of them. They all had milk or milk powder as an ingredient, which I wasn't crazy about, and the texture of the bread was too soft and mushy. The addition of the semolina flour is what does it here, it gives the bread a great texture and I think it's a stroke of genius. My only changes: I use 2-3 Tbs olive oil instead of the butter to keep it dairy free, and since I rarely have white wheat flour I use either all bread flour or 1/2 cup all-purpose instead of the white wheat. I often slice it and then freeze the slices, the bread retains its texture after defrosting and it's great for sandwiches. Thank you!
silvia wolff's avatar

silvia wolff · 486 weeks ago

My first try of Pullman bread. I used SPELT flour (looks white!) for the white wheat. Perfect Loaf!!!!!!!!!
very nice
thanks for compatble
Love to try It,but can I change the semolina flour for other? IRS foi expensive here in Brasil. Thanks!
I like your post, it is easy to understand and detailed, I hope you have many good posts to share, thank you.
wow, delicious food. i wish i can eat that one!
I have my own typical bread pan, but i like your idea, thanks for sharing that, i loves to eat breads with honey in morning
Good working and good article, Keep writing and stay blessed thanks for sharing
Absolutely wonderful it has lots of thing to choose and very entertaining blog, thanks.

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